CUT: This is one of the most important of all characteristics, and among the hardest to judge. All other factors being equal, a poorly cut diamond can be worth less than half the value of a well "made" stone. The proportions of a stone as well as its polish and precision of faceting determine how much of the diamond's potential fire and beauty may be released.

Diamond cutters are paid to retain the maximum weight from rough stones. You will find poorly cut diamonds such as overly long or fat Marquises, extremely deep Heart Shapes and Emerald Cuts, and Ovals and Pear Shapes with big shoulders, or overly deep or out of shape Rounds.

A poorly made stone tends to result in a higher yield (less waste) from the rough while a better made diamond "wastes" more of the rough. A well cut round diamond typically weighs only about 40% or less of the original weight of the piece of rough the cutter started with. This is why better cut diamonds and near ideal cut stones command a premium.

The way a diamond is cut will most certainly influence its sparkle, fire and brilliance, as well as its perceived size and even, to some degree its apparent color. In order to maximize the diamond's brilliance it must be cut in a geometrically precise manner. This means properly aligning the facets so light will enter the diamond and reflect back through the large top facet, or table of the diamond.

Below is a diagram of the proportions of the Ideal Cut for maximum brilliance. Symmetry, polish, and faceting are the most noticeable features of cut, but also important are percentages for depth, height and angles. Light should enter and exit a diamond through the top facets. A cut that is too shallow or too deep reflects it through the bottom facets, and lets the light "leak" out of the bottom or side of the gem.

 

An Ideal Cut diamond, which is round when viewed from above in its setting, tends to be more beautiful than other diamond cuts, as its proportions maximize the stone's sparkle, fire and brilliance.

Among the other popular diamond shapes are the Marquise, Emerald, Princess, Oval, Trilliant, Pear and Heart cuts. While these alternative shapes are fashionable, and often vital to the design of a piece of jewelry, you should expect to see a decrease in the brilliance that is yielded by an Ideal Cut diamond of similar quality.

Click HERE for examples of other diamond shapes.